How to Gather:
Today we are going to continue our “What I Wish I’d Known When I Started Sewing” series with a day dedicated to gathering.
Because we like big skirts and full dresses we kind of have gathering down to a science so we are excited to share with you a technique that we use ALL THE TIME.
Now before we show you how to gather we want to talk a little bit about what gathering is.
Gathering is a technique that helps control fabric fullness. It is a process that draws a given amount of fabric into a smaller, predetermined area. During the gathering process fabric will usually be gathered in to one third or one half it’s original width. This is done along one or more stitching lines in order to create soft, even folds.
Alright now that we know what gathering is let’s get to doing it!
There are a variety of ways to gather fabric but today we are going to share our two favorite ways.
The first process we are going to show you is a simple machine gathering process that we use on almost all of our skirts and dresses.
To begin set your machine to make long basting stitches (I set my stitch length on a 4 or higher).
Then run two parallel lines of stitching inside your seam allowance area. (As shown in the photograph below.) *Note the heavier the fabric the longer your stitch lengths should be.
Now pull both bobbin threads and slide the fabric in the opposite direction to create the gathers. (As is shown in the picture below.) *Note: Only pull either BOTH bobbin threads or BOTH top threads but don’t pull all 4 threads or any other combination of threads.
After you have your fabric gathered into the desired width then lay your fabric out and adjust your gathers so they are soft, even, and nicely spaced. (As shown in the photograph below.)
Now pin your gathered fabric to the fabric you will be attaching it to and sew! (Just remember to keep your two basting stitches safely inside your seam line so they won’t show when you are finished!) And when you are done you should love your finished product.
After all…who doesn’t love full gathered skirts!!!
Now there is one more gathering technique that we quickly wanted to share. If you are using stiff or heavy fabric (like upholstery fabrics) there is another process that is much easier to gather with. (For me anyways.) And here it is:
First you are going to need a thin cord (or a piece of yarn like I use) that is as long as the piece of fabric to be gathered.
Then you run that cord down the length of your fabric (inside the seam allowance) and machine stitch a wide zigzag over the top of the cord (or yarn) like in the photograph below. The zigzag stitch will act as a loose casing for the cord. Just be careful not to catch your cord in your stitching.
Next pull the cord one way and slide your fabric the other way to create your gathers. (As shown in the photograph below.)
Next adjust your gathers…even them out…make them look nice…and then run a stitch just below your zigzag stitch to hold your gathering in place. (As shown in the photograph below.)
Now remove your cord (or yarn). Simply pull it straight out.
And you are ready to attach that heavy fabric to another piece of heavy fabric and have it all nice, full, and fluffy!
Good Luck!!! And may all your gathers be full!
Now as a treat we have what might be my favorite “What I Wish I’d Known When I Started Sewing” advice. It is from our friend Amber over at Crazy Little Projects (who by the way has an AWESOME series going on right now over at her blog that you should check out). She says:
“When you sew you WILL make mistakes. It’s just part of the process (even when you’ve been sewing for years). Try to see beauty in using the seam ripper. The seam ripper is not your enemy, it is your friend. How many other things in life allow you to go back, undo what you’ve done and try again? Not many. So embrace that seam ripper. And use it when needed.”
Love that! And watch for her gift in the giveaway at the end of this month…it is an ADORABLE framed “Keep Calm and Get The Seam Ripper” graphic in your choice of colors. (You can sneak a peek of them HERE.) Thanks Amber!
I wish I knew this when I started sewing. Thank you for this post, I think I will be able to sew with gathers now.
With the first method, if you loosen the upper tension, it makes the gathering process a lot easier. You do, however, have to remember to anchor the end on normal tension…
When I first started to sew when I was 8, my mother taught me the second way to gather fabric. I think it is the easiest and quickest. I use it all the time. I have tried the first method and am always afraid that the threads will break.
Actually, if you sew one line of gathering stitches 1/8″ *inside* the seam line, your gathers will lie flatter and have much better control. After you sew the seam, simply pull the gathering thread (only the one that shows) the rest of the way out. Way better gathers. 😀
Thank you, thank you for recommending these two “manual-pulling” methods instead of the differential feed methods that are so popular on the internet these days. Nothing wrong with them, but it is always good to learn the manual way (preferably before learning the short-cut machine way) because it gives neater gathers and more control over pre- and post-gathered width ratios.
I learned to gather using that first method you shared, except we sewed the two lines of gathering stitches (the long stitches) on EITHER side of the final stitching line and, as Laura D said above, with lower tension on top than below. Then we pulled the back threads in unison to create perfectly parallel gathers, as you mentioned. Finally, we stitched on the stitching line, BETWEEN the two lines of gathering stitches, which, being on either side of that stitching line, held the gathers perfectly parallel and stationary as the presser foot went over them. Then we pulled out just the lower line of gathering stitches that was still visible outside the SA.
There are times when, because I want to save thread or am pressed for time (or just plain lazy, which is no excuse, but I’m just being honest), I’ve sewn just ONE line of gathering stitches instead of two. The results were always dismal. Two are better than one, and worth the extra thread.
I have tried and tried to gather like this. I always break the thread. After two tries and I don’t get it, I do the not fun and very time consuming pin, gather, pin gather, pin, gather…. repeat about one million times and then be very careful when sewing. No my gathering doesn’t turn out a pretty as yours. I may need to just practice, practice and practice. By the way, (dumb question I know) but lets say one time I am able to gather like a pro…. how do I keep it from ungathering as I pin it? and it not smooshing together as I am sewing it?