Sewing Terminology: A Mini Sewing Dictionary
Patterns (and seamstresses for that matter) seem to have their own language so today we put a list together for you (a mini dictionary if you will) to help you define all the sewing lingo that you may encounter when working with patterns.
(I wish I would have had a similar list when I started sewing…it would have saved me a lot of phone calls…)
Look it over and when you are finished check out the sewing advice from our friend Ashley at the end of the post!
Baste: to sew temporarily by hand or by machine
Baste-stitch: a basting done by machine that uses the longest stitch length (sometimes referred to as “machine-baste”)
Bias: a true diagonal of a square cloth
Binding: a single or double fold encasing a raw edge as a finish or trim
Closing: any garment opening allowing room for a garment to be put on or taken off (sometimes referred to as “opening” as well)
Crease: a line made by folding and pressing
Dart: a fold of fabric stitched to a point at one (or both ends) used to fit a body at the curves
Ease: to work in excess material inconspicuously (commonly done in sleeves)
Facing: Fabric or lining applied to the edge of a garment to finish it. (A fitted facing is a piece that duplicates the shape of the edge to be finished.)
Findings: refers to supplies such as thread, zippers, buttons, seam tape, etc.
Gather: to draw into folds or puckers…to draw up a fullness by pulling together machine or hand stitching
Grading: trimming seam allowances to eliminate bulk
Grain: the direction of threads in a woven fabric. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage edge. The crosswise grain runs from selvage to selvage.
Gusset: a shaped piece of fabric inserted into a garment to provide extra room
Interfacing: and extra piece of cloth (or store bought “interfacing”) placed between the garment and the facing to add strength, shape, or stiffness and to prevent stretching
Lap: to lay one part of the garment over another, or one side or a seam over another
Nap: (rhymes with lap…not that that has anything to do with sewing…) it is the short fibers of some materials that form a surface and lie in one direction
Notch: a small V-shaped mark on seams of pattern pieces to be used as a guide for matching seams
Pile: weave of a fabric with upright surface yarns (like in velvets)
Pin-Basting: placing pins parallel with or on the seam line in preparation for fitting or stitching
Pinking: jagged cut finish for a raw edge
Presser Foot: exerts pressure against the fabric and feed dog to insure proper stitch formation by holding the fabric securely in place as the stitch is made
Seam Allowance: extra fabric allowed along the seams by the pattern. (Standard garment seam allowance is 5/8 inch)
Seam Binding: narrow ribbon like tape used to finish raw seam edges
Selvage: the finished boarder on the lengthwise edges of woven fabrics
Shirring: several rows of gathers
Stay-Stitching: a link of regular-length machine stitching to prevent stretching
Stitch Length: Determines the distance the feed dogs move the fabric under the needle and presser foot. (Will make your stitches longer or shorter.)
Stitch Width: Controls the needle swing from side to side on zig-zag stitches. (And will make your stitches wider or thinner.)
Straight of Goods (or) Straight on Grain: a term used to designate the lengthwise grain in fabric
Tack: to fasten two fabric surfaces together loosely
Tension: Correct tension ensures that the same amount of thread flows from both the spool and the bobbin simultaneously to form a neat, tidy, interlocking stitch
Top-Stitching: a line of stitching along the seam line on the right side of the garment to add strength or design
***NOTE: This list was compiled and defined from various sewing books and even Webster’s Dictionary. We realize it doesn’t cover every term you will run across but it’s a good start!***
Today’s sewing advice comes from Ashley over at Make It Love It. She says,
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